Andrew T. Huse is curator of Florida studies at the University of South Florida Libraries. His other books include From Saloons to Steakhouses: A History of Tampa and The Columbia Restaurant: Celebrating a Century of History, Culture, and Cuisine. The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers (University Press of Florida), co-written with Bárbara C. Cruz and Jeff Houck, tells the story of how the title treat became a symbol for a displaced people, won the hearts and bellies of America, and claimed a spot on menus around the world. The odyssey of the “Cubano” – combining Cuban bread, sweet ham, savory roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese, and tangy, crunchy pickles – begins with its hazy origins in the midnight cafés of Havana. From there it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d’oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. Huse and his co-authors sort through vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind a lunch-counter staple in the U.S. and beyond.
